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Welcome to India

"What's that smell?" I asked my neighbour as the airgate connected to our plane, and local air seeped into the cabin. We'd struck up conversation during the closing credits of True Grit, and chatted sporadically throughout the eight-hour…

Notes from a Lay Bye: Road travel in India

Yup – that’s how they spell it. “Lay Bye”.  Local interpretations of the Indian Highway Code are a source of much-needed mirth at moments of stress. When you’re on any one of the subcontinent’s zillion roads, this means pretty…
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Death is Certain:
  notes from an Indian road trip

  Only Death is Certain Paradoxically, although nearly everyone gets sick in Delhi (myself excluded - I got sick a week after I left) it's easy to eat healthily. Fruit is fairly cheap, and at the juice bars on the Main Bazaar it's…